Question:

I have a 12-year-old cat who has become extremely territorial. An irresponsible neighbor lets her cat out every night, and it comes into my yard. My cat goes absolutely berserk when this happens. Once I was blocking her view of the wandering cat, and she attacked me! I took her to the vet, and they found nothing physically wrong. They wanted to put her on Prozac to calm her down, but I don't want to drug my cat. Is there some other way to correct this problem? I keep a floodlight on and a radio playing loud music, which sometimes works. If I go out in the yard about 15 minutes before the cat typically arrives, I can scare it away. But this is inconvenient when the weather is extremely cold. What do you suggest?

P.M., Clinton Township, MI Sep 06, 2010

Answer:

When resident cats see free-roaming cats invade their territory, it can create a lot of stress in the household. Certain resident cats often get so aroused as to attack another cat in the home or redirect aggression toward a human family member. Other than finding where the invading feline lives and urging the owners not to let their cat out or making your yard cat-proof with a specially designed fence, the best advice is to put up a screen or curtain so your cat can't see the backyard. At the very least, keep away from your cat when the sight of the intruder arouses her. Let the cat calm down by herself. Some cats start to spray and become un-housebroken when upset by an outside cat. A course of treatment with anti-anxiety drugs like fluoxetine or clomipramine may then be called for. You may also find that spraying the pheromone Feliway around the cat helps her calm down, along with some catnip herb to nibble or to drink as a tea whenever she likes.

Question:

I have a problem with one (or possibly two) of my three dogs. My female (8 years old) eats fecal matter. I know the best thing is to clean up the fenced yard, which I do twice a day. I have even caught her eating the poop while the other dog is going. Now I'm afraid my 1-year-old female Dane is picking up this behavior. I have tried For-Bid, meat tenderizer (which makes them extremely thirsty) and Stop, which is a tablet to stop stool eating and help with gas odor (it contains acidophilus chlorophyll, garlic, kelp, liver, parsley, peppermint and yucca). Nothing seems to work. Any suggestions for breaking this disgusting habit would be greatly appreciated. Their breath stinks; they also have bad gas and, at times, have come in with poop bits dangling from their jowls.

J.A., Springfield, MA Sep 06, 2010

Answer:

Coprophagia (poop eating) is an obnoxious canine addiction that is difficult to control. Dogs who are cage- or kennel-confined and bored often give up this vice when given more freedom and objects to play with. In your situation, your dog may or may not have some nutritional deficiency. Many dogs stop their coprophagia when taken off big-brand, junk dog foods and are given something better to eat. But your dog may simply be conscientiously cleaning up after your other dogs, just as she might with a litter of pups. I would suggest you either muzzle your dog so she can't eat anything outdoors or use a remote-control training collar that gives an alarming buzz to inhibit this behavior (but not one that delivers an electrical shock that some trainers use and that, in inexperienced and insensitive hands, can cause dogs much pain and terror). Adding two tablespoons of plain "live" yogurt (containing live bacteria, not pasteurized) or plain, organic kefir and 1 teaspoon of brewer's yeast (not baker's yeast!) to her food every day may help stop this addiction.

Question:

We have a 1-year-old cockapoo who appears to be suffering from severe allergies. We've been treating him with antihistamines, with minimal success. After reading up on dog allergies, I was surprised to find that they are not only common but several types of allergies can be tested for. Our dog constantly scratches and itches, to the point of turning his skin raw and scratching off clumps of hair. This condition is bad even during the winter, when I assume there are no molds or grasses that would contribute to an outdoor environmental condition. We don't think food is causing the problem, either. We're trying to find a vet who specializes in allergies to learn more about what may be making our dog's life miserable. What are your thoughts on this issue?

R.A.M., Springfield, Va Sep 05, 2010

Answer:

For various reasons, your dog's immune system has become impaired, so giving antihistamines (or steroids) won't help and could make things worse. A holistic approach is called for -- a homemade, whole-food diet of known ingredients (deleting some, adding others to retest for hypersensitivity) would be beneficial. Cover all areas where your dog likes to lie and sleep with old cotton sheets that you wash weekly in hot water and a little white vinegar; bathe him every two weeks with mild baby shampoo; and boost his immune system and improve skin condition with nutraceutical supplements such as flaxseed oil (1/2 teaspoon for a 15-pound dog) and one pediatric (child's) multimineral and multivitamin tablet (or similar supplement) that your veterinarian can prescribe. A few drops of primrose oil can be used as an alternative to flaxseed oil.

Question:

We have an 11-year-old, spayed female indoor cat. For 10 years, she used the litter box without fail, but in the past year, she has started to defecate all over the house, including furniture and beds. How can we stop this behavior? We tried yelling and keeping her in the bedroom where she normally sleeps, but nothing works.

L.S., Cape Coral, FL Sep 05, 2010

Answer:

Yelling at her is pointless and basically cruel. Giving your cat a few drops of fish oil in her food (working up to a teaspoon daily) may help, because of its anti-inflammatory properties. This would be especially beneficial if your cat has arthritis in the back, which is a common reason for otherwise healthy older cats to become impossible to housebreak. A veterinary checkup is called for, as she most likely has an age-related physical problem. Putting the litter in a large (2-by-3), low-sided (2 inches high) tray might make it easier for your cat to maneuver around while evacuating. Massage therapy will also benefit her.

Another thing: Check if her stools are stiff. She could simply be constipated and needs a stool softener like Laxatone (from the vet); some pumpkin or mashed lima beans, olive oil and some raw meat and liver might also help.

Question:

We adopted a 1-year-old abused and starved female beagle/terrier mix. We have had her for three months, and she is sweet, gentle and lovable. But she is afraid of all except us. When people come into our house, she paces or hides until they leave. What can you recommend to help make her more sociable? We love her dearly, and she loves us.

A.&E.S., Boynton Beach, FL Aug 30, 2010

Answer:

Dogs like yours who may have been abused or not properly socialized with people as a puppy can be difficult cases when it comes to overcoming fear and strangers. Teach her with praise and food rewards to sit and stay while on the leash at your side in the living room. When visitors come, they should understand what you are doing and be quiet when entering. Keep your dog leashed at your side while you engage in normal conversation. Have the guests ignore the dog because even looking at her could be perceived as threatening. Invite a couple of friends over to help desensitize your dog by coming in, sitting down and chatting, then leaving and coming back several times; repeat over several days. You should not allow your dog to run away and hide, which indirectly rewards/reinforces her avoidance behavior. Give praise and treats when she settles down with guests in the same room.

Question:

My golden Lab eats the lumps in the kitty litter, and I am worried it will harm her. It's not a case of her being hungry; she is well-fed twice a day. Each time she gets half a can of meat chunks, about 2 cups of dry food, half a can of vegetables (carrots or green beans) and sometimes table scraps. She is 13 years old, but shows no signs of age! I read that there are studies of Rottweilers who live to be 13 and are immune to cancer. My Lab seems to be in this category. She is obedient, a good watchdog and my dear companion. She tolerates the cat indoors, but I'm afraid to let them both out in the yard at the same time, as the dog chases any creature that moves. She killed a squirrel recently. Any advice?

D.F., Silver Spring, Md Aug 30, 2010

Answer:

Your dog is old for the breed and must have some good genes! Dogs self-medicate by eating grass and soil or dirt. Your dog may be craving certain minerals in her diet. Giving her a daily (human) multimineral/multivitamin tablet or capsule that's broken up and mixed with her regular food may be what she needs. Some dogs eat cat feces they find in the litter box because they are motivated to clean up the mess, as they would with their own pups. Eating the litter itself could mean there is some abdominal discomfort, which may need to be checked, especially if other symptoms develop. Set up a low gate so the cat can jump over and use the box, but the dog cannot. More than one dog has developed acute intestinal blockage after consuming cat litter. Clay-based and especially mineral-based cat litter can also harm cats. Try changing the litter to no-clay, like the corn-based World's Best Cat Litter or Purina's Yesterday's News Paper-Based Cat Litter made from recycled newspaper (primarily harmless cellulose). Avoid all scented cat litters for cat's sake. Clap your hands or blow a whistle to scare squirrels out of the yard before your dog goes out.

Question:

I have a little Yorkie who is 10 years old. She is a former puppy-mill dog whom my husband and I adopted last June. She is perfect in every way, and we want to give her the best life possible. But we were wondering if what we feed her is appropriate. We feed her Science Diet each day, but we also give her two thin slices of turkey bacon each morning when we have breakfast. She absolutely lives for this. We mix it in with her Science Diet nuggets. Is it OK to give her turkey bacon on a regular basis? Are we doing something we should avoid? We adopted another puppy-mill dog a few years ago. She was also 10 years old, and we were able to give her three happy years before losing her. She was perfect in every way, as well; but I wouldn't recommend a puppy-mill dog for just anyone, because they require a lot of time, love and attention -- they cannot do anything and they must be taught everything. But what a joy it is to see them climb up stairs or jump on a sofa for the first time. Imagine a dog sitting in a cage for 10 years, and imagine all the things they don't have the opportunity to learn. Someone once asked me what I expected to get from a dog "like that." My response: "I don't expect to get anything. I hope only to give." Many puppy-mill dogs have had little human contact. It took both of our dogs a few months to take a treat from our hands, but the wait was well worth it.

K.S., St. Louis, Mo Aug 29, 2010

Answer:

I hope your letter will be read by many and help put an end to the government's (U.S. Department of Agriculture) "regulated" commercial puppy-breeding industry. Puppy mills are an abomination. They are a disgusting and disgraceful reflection of our culture and our spiritual decline as a civilization. I would urge you to transition your dog onto a home-prepared diet, as per my recipe on my website, TwoBitDog.com/DrFox. Also on the website, you will find many good brands of dog food -- from frozen to canned and dry -- that may be best for a small dog with such a stressful and physically/psychologically damaging past. A little turkey bacon is OK as a treat, but it would be best to get away from all processed meats. There are some excellent organic and freeze-dried salmon and other meat treats, additive-free, such as PetGuard and Stella & Chewy's, that would be better for your dog. In the long run, especially for an older dog whose health may need attention -- teeth, gums and kidneys in particular -- fresh foods would be best.

Question:

Our 8-year-old, 10-pound mini-dachshund receives several vaccines each year:
-- Bordetella booster
-- DA2PP booster
-- Heartworm/Borrelia/E. canis
-- Lyme-disease booster
-- Rabies canine booster (every three years)
Are all of these vaccines necessary on a yearly basis? Are the doses adjusted according to the weight of the dog?
I ask because our dog gets very ill for up to three days after receiving these vaccines. He won't move, he won't eat (or must be coaxed to eat) and is very sore. He has the same reaction every year, and I wonder if the pain is worth it. One last question: Do we really need to apply Frontline on a monthly basis for flea/tick prevention?

J.K., Laurel, Md Aug 29, 2010

Answer:

Dogs who have received the "core" vaccinations to protect them against canine distemper, canine hepatitis and parvovirus are good for at least three years, and are probably protected for the rest of their lives. The vet can run blood tests to confirm this -- a much safer protocol than simply revaccinating. Your old dog is being overvaccinated. The bordetella-disease booster is only needed if your dog is going to soon stay at a boarding kennel. The Lyme-disease vaccine, which may not give any protection, is only justified if your dog gets exposed to ticks and you can't check your dog daily and remove any you find during the season. Vaccine doses are regrettably and inexplicably not adjusted to a dog's size or body weight. Check my book "Dog Body, Dog Mind" or go to my website for flea-control measures. Frontline and similar products should only be used as a last resort when fleas are out of control.

Question:

My mother was bedridden the last few months of her life. She had been taking care of my dog Heidi and said if anything ever happened to Heidi, she would love to get a cat. Well, Heidi died about a month before my mom passed away. The morning after Heidi's death, a beautiful Siamese cat came to her front door. We let him in. He walked through the house to mom's bed and curled up by her feet on the bed, where he stayed until she died. He just took up residence there. We had never seen him in the neighborhood before.

B.C., Fort Worth, TX Aug 23, 2010

Answer:

This touching story makes me wonder about the metaphysical dimensions of animal communication and awareness. But coming back to earth, I hope you kept this wonderful feline and made every effort to find his original owners in your community. I have received a few letters like yours over the years where a strange cat or dog has come into a home right after the resident animal has passed on. Is it coincidence? I call it part of the Great Mystery.

Question:

With all the information I have read in your columns, I've never seen any article dealing with ways to remove the smell of skunk on a dog (or any animal, for that matter). I have tried several methods, to no avail. What do you advise?

L.T.H., Brewster, NY Aug 23, 2010

Answer:

The scent emitted from an alarmed skunk is an oily secretion, so first use an absorbent like talcum powder or cornstarch. Work it into the dog's fur, and brush or hose it out after 15 to 20 minutes (outdoors, of course) and then apply liberal amounts of ketchup (the traditional treatment) or an enzyme-based cleaner like Nature's Miracle or Orange TKO, which is a safe cleaner and deodorizer. After 30 minutes, bathe the dog using a penetrating shampoo like Head & Shoulders or Selsun Blue.